Volume One  ·  Spring 2026
A Fortnight in Central Europe

Nine Cities,
Fifteen Days

30 April – 15 May 2026
JFK · GVA · VCE · LJU · GRZ · BTS · BRQ · PRG · WRO · DUB
The Itinerary

Contents

A travel companion: routes, rooms, anchors, and the small disciplines that keep a long trip from drifting.

Sharp pacing without drift 🇪🇺 good dinners on the nights that matter, real neighborhood texture instead of crowd traps.

A Fifteen-Day Arc

From the Alps to the Atlantic, by way of nine cities.

The trip opens with a transatlantic landing in Geneva and a soft drift south to the Veneto, then turns east through the Slovene capital, takes a slow line up through Styria into the old Habsburg corridor, and finishes with three restorative nights in Dublin. Coaches and one cross-border train do most of the hauling; a single short flight closes the loop into Ireland.

A trip designed around dinners, neighborhoods, and the small windows when local life is unguarded.

Key Dates

Thu 30 AprDepart JFK · Swiss
Fri 1 MayGeneva → Venice
Sat 2 MayMestre → Ljubljana
Mon 4 MayLjubljana → Graz
Tue 5 MayGraz → Bratislava
Wed 6 MayBratislava → Brno
Thu 7 MayBrno → Prague
Sun 10 MayPrague → Wrocław
Tue 12 MayWrocław → Dublin
Fri 15 MayDublin → JFK

Map

The line we are tracing.

Geneva Venice / Mestre Ljubljana Graz Bratislava Brno Prague Wrocław Dublin 🇪🇺 Coach, train, and one short flight 🇪🇺

In the sky

Four flights, three carriers.

DateCarrier · FlightRouteLocal time
Thu 30 AprSwiss · LX023JFK → Geneva19:25 → 09:15+1
Fri 1 MayeasyJet · EJU7457Geneva → Venice Marco Polo17:35 → 18:50
Tue 12 MayKLM · KL1336 / KL1137Wrocław → Dublin via AMS06:00 → 10:25
Fri 15 MayAer Lingus · EI109Dublin → JFK19:45 → ·

Dublin clears US customs on departure 🇮🇪 arrive three hours early.

On the ground

A coach-and-train spine.

DateModeRouteDeparts · ArrivesDuration
Sat 2 MayFlixBusMestre → Ljubljana11:30 → 15:304h 00m
Mon 4 MayÖBB · IR 576Ljubljana → Graz via Maribor10:15 → 13:333h 18m
Tue 5 MayFlixBusGraz → Bratislava09:20 → 12:503h 30m
Wed 6 MayFlixBusBratislava → Brno11:45 → 13:201h 35m
Thu 7 MayFlixBusBrno → Prague11:00 → 13:202h 20m
Sun 10 MayFlixBusPrague → Wrocław10:35 → 14:554h 20m

The ÖBB segment crosses the Slovene–Austrian border at Spielfeld 🇦🇹 carry a printed ticket and ID.

Where we sleep

Eight beds across fifteen nights of motion.

Mestre · 1 night
Hotel Guidi
Forte Marghera quarter 🇮🇹 a single room for the soft landing.
Ljubljana · 2 nights
ibis Styles · The Fuzzy Log
Hostel-hotel hybrid, walking distance to Prešeren Square.
Graz · 1 night
B&B Hotel Graz-Hbf
Lend district 🇦🇹 across the Mur from the old town.
Bratislava · 1 night
Wild Elephants Hostel
Old Town dorm 🇸🇰 one strong night, then onward.
Brno · 1 night
Grand Palace Brno
Šilingrovo náměstí 🇨🇿 central, one strong evening.
Prague · 3 nights
Onefam Home
Hybernská 🇨🇿 a social base near the Old Town.
Wrocław · 2 nights
The Bridge Wrocław · MGallery
Riverside 🇵🇱 the trip's quiet luxury.
Dublin · 3 nights
Latroupe Jacobs Inn
Talbot Place, North Inner City 🇮🇪 minutes from Connolly & the Liffey.

Day by day

Fifteen mornings, one good walk and one good table at a time.

JFK · Departure
Thursday · 30 April
Wheels up.
JFK → Geneva, overnight on Swiss.

The trip begins in motion. An evening lift from JFK on Swiss LX023, dinner at altitude, and a thin window of sleep before Geneva at first light.

Anchors

  • Boarding around early evening
  • Sleep on the flight; keep arrival day light

Practical

Pack the carry-on for easyJet's tighter cabin allowance the next day.

Geneva · Lac Léman
Friday · 1 May  ·  Labor Day
A soft landing.
Geneva → Venice → Mestre.

Geneva at 09:15 is for coffee and a bench by the lake, not sightseeing. Be back at the airport with margin: easyJet's bag drop is short and unforgiving on Labor Day staffing.

Anchors

  • Coffee & a brief lakeside walk if energy allows
  • EJU7457 · 17:35 → 18:50 to Venice Marco Polo
  • Transfer straight to Mestre; keep the night functional

Dinner

  • Hostaria Vite Rossa (priority)
  • Trattoria Vecio Piron · Osteria da Tomi (backup)

Sleep

Hotel Guidi · Mestre.

Ljubljana · Triple Bridge
Saturday · 2 May
East across the Karst.
Mestre → Ljubljana, by coach.

The 11:30 FlixBus from Mestre Stazione lands you in Ljubljana by mid-afternoon 🇸🇮 a moderate-energy arrival, not a 20k-step day.

First walk

  • Prešeren Square → Triple Bridge → riverfront
  • Castle is optional, not obligatory

Dinner

  • Gostilna Sokol (anchor)
  • Julija · Druga Violina (backup)

Sleep

The Fuzzy Log · Ljubljana.

Ljubljana · Café morning
Sunday · 3 May
A café-and-neighborhood day.
Ljubljana, in full.

Sunday is quiet by design. Coffee and journaling at TOZD, Stow, or Kavarna Rog; a slow walk through Trnovo and Tivoli; a single Slovenian table for the evening.

Booked move

  • Plečnik House 🇸🇮 English guided tour via MGML (timed, capped)

Best item play

  • Štruklji, then a small fruit spirit later

Sleep

The Fuzzy Log · Ljubljana.

Graz · Schlossberg
Monday · 4 May
A Styrian Monday.
Ljubljana → Graz, by ÖBB.

The IR 576 lifts at 10:15, threads the border at Spielfeld, and is in Graz by 13:33. Museums are dark on Monday 🇦🇹 the day belongs to walking and food.

Walk

  • Herrengasse → Hauptplatz → Schlossberg → Murinsel

Afternoon

  • Frankowitsch 🇦🇹 the institution

Dinner

  • aiola upstairs · or aiola im schloss
  • Mangolds (practical fallback)

Sleep

B&B Hotel Graz-Hbf.

Bratislava · Old Town
Tuesday · 5 May
A small capital, a Škoda, and a beer.
Graz → Bratislava.

FlixBus 09:20 from Webling, in Bratislava by 12:50. The city wears small well: do it on foot, then by Trabant, then over a long table.

Walk

  • Old Town → Michael's Gate → Castle hill → Danube

Booked move

  • Authentic Slovakia 🇸🇰 communist-era Škoda/Trabant tour

Dinner

  • Modrá Hviezda (primary)
  • Bratislavský Meštiansky Pivovar (backup)
  • Vietnamese Bistro · Miletičova Market (flex)

Sleep

Wild Elephants Hostel · Bratislava.

Brno · Špilberk
Wednesday · 6 May
One strong evening in Moravia.
Bratislava → Brno.

An hour and a half on the coach. Brno is not a deep-discovery city; it is one good loop, one excellent dinner, and a glass of unfiltered lager.

Walk

  • Špilberk → Zelný trh → St. Peter and Paul

Coffee

  • SKØG Urban Hub · Punkt

Booked move

  • Brno Ossuary under St. James 🇨🇿 English-guided via TIC Brno

Dinner

  • Bistro Franz (anchor)
  • Lokál U Caipla · U Tří Ídií · U Čápa

Sleep

Grand Palace Brno.

Prague · Charles Bridge
Thursday · 7 May
Into Prague.
Brno → Prague, three-night base.

FlixBus 11:00, in Prague by 13:20 at Roztyly. One postcard loop, one real neighborhood.

First loop

  • Old Town → Charles Bridge → Malá Strana
  • Then push to Letná, Holešovice, Karlín, or Vinohrady

Dinner

  • Lokál Dlouhááá · Kantýna

Social base

  • MadHouse Prague

Sleep

Onefam Home · three nights.

Prague · Holešovice
Friday · 8 May  ·  Czech Victory Day
A holiday, planned for.
Prague 🇨🇿 neighborhoods, not museums.

Victory Day means fewer assumptions and more deliberate choices. One café, one dinner, one outdoor loop 🇨🇿 pre-confirmed.

Targets

  • Holešovice · Žižkov · Letná · Karlín · Vinohrady

Immigrant-food move

  • SAPA (if logistics work)
  • Banh Mi Makers (in-town fallback)

Sleep

Onefam Home.

Prague · Karlín
Saturday · 9 May
Prague does the heavy lifting.
A richer day 🇨🇿 or a softer one.

Whichever way Friday went, this is the day Prague carries: coffee, food, café culture, social energy.

Walk

  • Vinohrady → Riegrovy sady → Žižkov

Coffee

  • Můj šálek kávy

Dinner

  • Eska (best-value fine-dining play)

Booked move

  • Veltlin · Karlín 🇨🇿 Central European natural-wine flight

Sleep

Onefam Home.

Wrocław · Rynek
Sunday · 10 May
North into Silesia.
Prague → Wrocław.

FlixBus 10:35 from Černý Most, in Wrocław by 14:55. Sunday quiet 🇵🇱 anchor the night with an actual plan.

First walk

  • Rynek → university quarter → Cathedral Island → river crossings

Dinner

  • Konspira (anchor)
  • Setka (Sunday backup)

Note

Hala Targowa is lunch logic, not dinner insurance.

Sleep

The Bridge Wrocław · MGallery.

Wrocław · The table
Monday · 11 May
The table day.
Wrocław, in full.

One of the load-bearing food days of the entire trip. Walkable and local: Nadodrze, the university quarter, Cathedral Island, the bridges. Thirty minutes before sunset, catch the gas-lamp lighting on Cathedral Island.

Dinner 🇵🇱 confirm in advance

  • Konspira · Setka · Pod Papugami · Baraba · STÓŁ na Szwedzkiej

Booked move

  • Browar Stu Mostów 🇵🇱 brewery tour with tasting

Sleep

The Bridge Wrocław.

Dublin · Liffey
Tuesday · 12 May
An early lift, a soft landing.
Wrocław → Dublin, via Amsterdam.

KLM 06:00 out of Wrocław, through Schiphol, into Dublin at 10:25. Embraer first leg, 737 second. Keep the morning clean.

Arrival dinner

  • The Fumbally · 777 · Delahunt 🇮🇪 pick by landing time

Avoid

Overplanning the night. Dublin keeps.

Sleep

Latroupe Jacobs Inn · Talbot Place · three nights.

Dublin · Stoneybatter
Wednesday · 13 May
A neighborhood Dublin.
Stoneybatter, the Liberties, Portobello.

Skip Temple Bar. The good Dublin is two bridges and a corner pub away.

Dinner

  • Spitalfields · Etto · Bastible

Immigrant-food move

  • Nan Chinese · Capel Street Asian Supermarket Korean counter

Pub & music

  • The Gravediggers (pub)
  • The Cobblestone (music)
Dublin · Grand Canal
Thursday · 14 May
The buffer day.
Light by design.

Laundry, repacking, one walk, one café. Lock airport logistics today, not tomorrow.

Neighborhoods

  • Grand Canal · Portobello · Smithfield

Booked move

  • Glasnevin Cemetery Museum 🇮🇪 guided tour, set departures

Sleep

Latroupe Jacobs Inn · final night.

Dublin · Departure
Friday · 15 May
Home, with margin.
Dublin → JFK on Aer Lingus EI109.

Not a sightseeing day. Dublin clears US customs on departure 🇮🇪 three hours early, every time.

Logistics

  • EI109 · 19:45 from DUB
  • Preclearance: full immigration & customs in Dublin
  • Aer Lingus Lounge (Terminal 2) before preclearance if Priority Pass

Fifteen days. Nine cities. One long table after another.

By city

A working list of anchors.


Mestre

Veneto

  • Hostaria Vite Rossa
  • Trattoria Vecio Piron
  • Osteria da Tomi
Ljubljana

Slovenia

  • Gostilna Sokol
  • Julija
  • Druga Violina
  • TOZD · Stow · Kavarna Rog
Graz

Styria

  • Frankowitsch
  • aiola upstairs · im schloss
  • Mangolds
Bratislava

Slovakia

  • Modrá Hviezda
  • Bratislavský Meštiansky Pivovar
  • Vietnamese Bistro · Miletičova
Brno

Moravia

  • Bistro Franz
  • Lokál U Caipla
  • U Tří Ídií · U Čápa
  • SKØG · Punkt
Prague

Bohemia

  • Lokál Dlouhááá · Kantýna
  • Eska
  • Veltlin · Karlín
  • Můj šálek kávy
  • SAPA · Banh Mi Makers
Wrocław

Silesia

  • Konspira
  • Setka
  • Pod Papugami
  • Baraba
  • STÓŁ na Szwedzkiej
  • Browar Stu Mostów
Dublin

Ireland

  • Spitalfields
  • Etto
  • Bastible
  • The Fumbally · 777 · Delahunt
  • The Gravediggers
  • The Cobblestone

What to actually order

Best-item plays.

  • Ljubljana 🇸🇮 štruklji, then a small fruit spirit later.
  • Graz 🇦🇹 open-faced sandwiches at Frankowitsch with a glass of Schilcher.
  • Brno 🇨🇿 nakládaný hermelín and unfiltered lager.
  • Prague 🇨🇿 natural-wine flight at Veltlin; pivo at Lokál.
  • Wrocław 🇵🇱 pierogi flight; Browar Stu Mostów's Salamander.
  • Dublin 🇮🇪 pint of plain at Gravediggers; trad set at Cobblestone.

What this itinerary is protecting

The hard constraints.


Public holidays

1 May 🇮🇹🇸🇮🇦🇹 Labor Day across Italy, Slovenia, and Austria. Bank-style closures, thin transit, reduced restaurant staffing.

4 May 🇦🇹 Monday in Graz: museums dark, many kitchens closed.

8 May 🇨🇿 Czech Victory Day. Plan Prague around neighborhoods, not institutions.

10–11 May 🇵🇱 Wrocław Sunday-Monday stretch: confirm dinners in advance.

12 May 🇵🇱 Wrocław airport, 06:00 lift. Pre-arrange the taxi.

Money

CHF · EUR · EUR · EUR · EUR · CZK · CZK · PLN · EUR. Five currencies; cards mostly accepted; carry a small EUR float for coaches.

Transit

Coaches dominate. Print the ÖBB ticket on A4 paper for the cross-border segment. easyJet bag-drop window is short and hard.

Preclearance

Dublin clears US immigration and customs on departure. Arrive three hours before EI109, not the normal two.

Shoulder-season Central Europe.


Layers

Mornings cool, afternoons mild, occasional rain 🇪🇺 a packable shell, one warm mid-layer, two thin sweaters. Walking shoes that take cobbles. Dublin will be wetter than the rest.

Carry-on discipline

easyJet allows one cabin bag; bag-drop opens at 15:35 and closes at 16:45 in Geneva. Pack so you don't need the larger bag for the second flight.

Documents

Passport, ÖBB PDF on paper, easyJet boarding pass on phone, KLM cards in wallet, EI preclearance ready. One backup of all PDFs in email.

Rhythm

Two soft-arrival days (Mestre, Ljubljana). One real recovery window (Dublin buffer day). The rest is paced for one good walk and one good table per day 🇪🇺 no museum marathons.

Tips, by mode.


FlixBus

Reliable on these corridors, with the caveat that the apps update gates late. Be at the stop 20 minutes early; Mlynské Nivy and Roztyly are confusing on first approach.

ÖBB

Sparschiene fares are non-refundable and non-exchangeable. The Ljubljana–Graz IR is comfortable; bring water and a snack.

easyJet

Cabin-bag only on the Geneva–Venice leg. Check-in closes 50 minutes before departure. No leniency on bag size.

KLM

Schiphol connection is 2 hours 🇳🇱 comfortable, but the AMS shuttle between piers can eat 25 minutes. Don't dawdle in duty-free.

Aer Lingus

Preclearance line varies dramatically; assume worst case. Eat after preclearance, not before.

Lounges & departure-day execution.


JFK · Swiss LX023, business

Lufthansa Business Lounge (Terminal 1) — the practical access path for SWISS business at JFK.

Geneva (GVA, Schengen, easyJet)

Priority Pass options exist; pick by gate to save walking time.

Wrocław (WRO, 06:00)

Executive Lounge — Priority Pass, opens 04:30, early enough to matter.

Amsterdam (AMS, 2-hr layover)

Priority Pass Aspire lounges exist but can be crowded. Treat as "gate first, lounge second."

Dublin (DUB, EI109, business + preclearance)

Aer Lingus Lounge (Terminal 2). If using a Priority Pass lounge, do it before US preclearance — there's no lounge access on the US side.

What is already paid

The numbers.

ItemCity / RouteNights / ModeCost
Hotel GuidiMestre1 night, singleprepaid
The Fuzzy LogLjubljana2 nights, double$126.01
B&B Hotel Graz-HbfGraz1 nightprepaid
Wild Elephants HostelBratislava1 night, dorm$27.52
Grand Palace BrnoBrno1 nightprepaid
Onefam HomePrague3 nights, dormprepaid
The Bridge Wrocław · MGalleryWrocław2 nights, superior king1,290 zł
Latroupe Jacobs InnDublin3 nights, ensuite dorm$140.15
ÖBB SparschieneLjubljana → Graztrain, 2nd class€29.90
FlixBus · 5 segmentsacross the routecoachprepaid
easyJetGVA → VCEcabin-bag fareprepaid
KLMWRO → DUB via AMSeconomyprepaid
Swiss · Aer LingusJFK ↔ Europelong-haulprepaid

A working ledger 🇪🇺 not a final reconciliation. Daily food and ground variance still to come.